In good company.

Lucky me. Two days in a row I get on a computer. YEAH! I made it to Arzua today, 29.4 kilometres closer to Santiago. To my surprise it was a great day of walking and I had no troubles at all. So I was back to some decent speed again, which felt great. Interestingly, I have very vague memories from this walk last year and it felt like a new experience most of the day. I loved the novelty of not knowing much of the terrain. It turns out I have very good and detailed memories from my trip last year and can accurately predict many details along the way.

On this part of the Camino there are alot more pilgrims, as one only has to walk from Sarria to Santiago to get the Compostela. There are youth groups and families, groups of friends and couples walking, and the scene is not so "pure" anymore. After being able to walk peacefully for weeks it takes a bit getting used to. But it also lifts the spirit and excitement for the impending arrival in Santiago. These "new" pilgrims are easy to spot as they are light on their feet and their shoes and clothes generally are VERY clean and new. As for the rest of us peregrinos we cannot hide anywhere anymore as our gear gives us away at all times. And, not only our gear, our pains cannot be concealed easily either, as people are limping and dragging from blisters, muscle aches and tendon pains. I have actually seen quite a few people struggle with their tendons and on the walk out of Villafranca del Bierzo I met a man from Switzerland with the same tendonities as I had from last year. He too had been reduced to slow walking and was on antiinflammatories, with support wrapped aroung his right foot. I felt his pain so strongly yet I was on one of my best walks of the Camino. And I saw his incredible desire to see this journey through and walk into Santiago. Oh, could I relate to that! The closer to Santiago I get the more I see this around me. But I also see those people who are almost flying along the trail and I am in awe. I am in good shape but I totally fade in comparison. With all these different sights of people I am grateful to be part of this amazing journey that again is leaving a mark of my soul.

This morning I wanted to get away from the crowds more and got up and at it by 6:25. To my surprise I was already way behind many people and as the day replaced the morning dusk I could see the crowds ahead on the trail. Amazing! But it was a more quiet scene and the walk had a better ambiance.

On a different note; I have been thinking alot about the religious and personal focus on the camino and there is a contrast that strikes me. As pilgrims all the societal divisions are stripped away and we are all in this together, everyone being equal and sharing bread and stories on a daily basis as well as looking out for one another whether we can verbally communicate with each other or not. Then I go to a church and sit through a mass, and the hierarchical structure and rules are obvious. In the Catholic church there are so many rules to follow that I find it hard to connect with many of their philosophies. Yet, I do admire people who commit themselves to selfless service for humankind with the conviction that they are part of making this world a better place. All in all I believe they do, though we as pilgrims choose to seek answers within as much as without. Some pilgrims that are committed to work in the religious service or who are devout can come across as somewhat superior and purer in their style. I have met some of these people along the way and must watch not to judge them. The churches are quite empty most times during mass and reflect the change in times. People are not taking all their preaching verbatum anymore, but rather looking for their own truth. The church seems to be outdated in their style. Thus, many more people are taking to the Camino. In my world that is a great sign. At the end of the day we have much more wisdom and truth within ourselves and once we learn to use this connection in an honest and productive way we will better serve ourselves and this world that we live in.

BUEN CAMINO!

" Walking, I am listening to a deeper way. Suddenly all my ancestors are behind me. ´Be still´, they say. Watch and listen. You are the result of the love of thousands."
-Linda Hogan.