Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Lots of walking...Estella-Belorado. 123.8 km in 4 days...
Today is day 10, and I have just arrived in Belorado, finishing stage 10 of my trip. Because I stayed an extra day in Estella, which I will say more about in a bit, I have walked alot these last few days to make up for my day off. After Estella I walked to Torres del Rio, 28.9 km away. The last 7.2km I walked in the scorching afternoon sun. And, not paying attention to the fact that the sun was coming from behind I ended up with some red areas...called sunburn!!! But, they were not too bad, and I have learned my lesson. The next day, Monday, August 3rd. I walked from there to Navarette, 33 km away. This is the day I wrote my first blog. I had one mission in Logrono and that was to find an internet cafe, and as you know, I did. But after sitting there for quite a while it was time to get out and walk again. When I started walking it was 1:30pm and on a sign it showed that the temperature was 32 degrees celcius. HOT!!! But, I did not mind trading the peregrinos for the heat. It was nobody walking and despite the weather it was so peaceful that it was worth it. I think I can say that I am now making friends with the heat. After leaving Logrono I caught up with Luca, the friendly Italian from last night. Together we walked the last part to Navarette. We were soaked when we finally arrived, though our walk was very nice and peaceful. So the first thing we did was head into the bar for something to drink; Luca for his coffee (Italian espresso) and water, and me for my lemonade. After getting our bearings we walked next door to the Albergue and got settled in. On the camino there is a simple routine; up early and walk, walk, walk, and when you arrive it is time for unpacking (fast), shower (hopefully some hot water...but definitely not a given), washing clothes (so they can have enough time to dry in the afternoob sun), and then get stretch, relax/sleep for a bit, journalling and finally some food. The lights are out by 10pm and sometimes the doors lock at that time as well. So, bedtime is 10pm for me. It is actually a good routine. That night in Navarette I ate in this resturant in a small hotel, La Carioca, (pilgrim menu) and it was such a delightful surprise. The decor was modern, but with art (photos in black/white) of local architecture. The food was ok, but the service and ambiance were outstanding. They had a big band playing in the village square that night,and the music was amazing. I wanted to dance so badly (nobody was dancing by the way), but my legs could hardly handle me moving to the rhytm. Ouch! Yesterday morning it was up at 5:30am, and for the first time on the Camino I had to use my head lamp to see where I was going. I ended up in a row after a German guy, Patrick (who woke me up), Miguel Angel (fromSpain), and before my friend Luca, who needed to slow down to get going. His feet are killing him first thing, but he picks up speed throughout the morning. With such an early start and quick pace we arrived in Najera, 13.7 km away, before 9 am. We found a bar and sat down for some well-deserved breakfast. During breakfast we discussed each our goals for the day, and came to see that three of us really wanted to make it to Santa Domingo de la Calzada, 24.3km away. Despite blisters and sore legs we were all motivated to have a long walk that day on the Camino. The last guy, Patrick, said he would walk to Azofra. We were soon on our way again, and before long we had made it to Azofra, 8 km down the road. We stopped at the new albergue (only four years old) for a quick rest and some water. There we got our best surprise....a fountain in the middle of the courtyard for us to soak our sore feet in. It was heavely!!! And it did wonders for my blister for the last part of the day. So after the treat we patched our feet up again, put on more sunscreen ( I did learn my lesson) and championed on. We were walking fast and I did not want to slow the guys down. So at one point whenI needed some water I decided to drink while walking (I do that quite a bit). Bad mistake. We were walking on this gravel road with big rocks on it and I had a moment of not paying close attention to where I placed my foot. Before I knew it i was on the ground, with a couple of scrapes and as it would turn out...a sprained ancle (right). The guys helped me up, poured some antiseptic on my scratches and off we went. I was brave, but my right foot was killing me. Finally, by 3:30 in the afternoon we arrived in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. We had walked almost 38km. That´s the most I have ever done in a day, and I survived!!! I was also back on track after my time out in Estella. And, now I know I can do some good distances where I need to. One of the hostels there, Abadia Cisterciense, is operated by the Cisterian nuns. Pay was by donation only. We got a room with three beds only, and I had my best sleep in a while. One thing is for sure, though; I will not forget the ants there. They were crawling everywhere!!! But, all in all it was a very peaceful place to stay. Our Spanish friend, Miguel, picked a restaurant that he was told was supposed to be good. So the three friends for the day went out for a lovely dinner that was in stark contrast to the pilgrim menu. But, it was a nice evening and we had a great time. With five minutes to spare before the doors locked at 10pm we got up to make our way back. The sight of us was hilarious..three stiff and stumbling peregrinos, hardly able to walk. The comedy was not lost on us and we giggled and laughed so hard we could hardly stop. This morning I was a bit sore at the beginning, but soon the bad ancle from my sprain yesterday started aching and it was all I could do today to make it to Belorado. I kept a pretty good pace and it was my nice rhythm that saved me. By the sight of the first Albergue I had had enough. Luca and I were walking together and we quickly went in, got our drinks and asked for ice. To make a long story short, I´m staying here tonight, and so are Randi (who I met this morning at the first bar along the way) and Illka (who I saw last night at the Albergue). This was Randi´s last day of walking to we are having a last dinner together tonight. I said goodbye to Luca, who was doing another 5 km today. His pace is fast and I do not expect to se him again. As I am writing this I am diligently icing my swollen ancle doing everything I can to make it ok for tomorrow. I am planning to walk to St. Juan de Artega, 24.1km away. After this it is blister management again. I have a couple of blisters that are stubbournly resilient and painful....and a few more...life on the Camino...
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